Tuesday, 10 April 2012

Lashapalooza: The Cluster Lash Tutorial

I've been promising this tutorial since last week, but as you can see we were in London and so I had to push it back. But here we are, and today it is cluster lash extensions.

When I chat about lash extensions with people they are often really unsure where to start which is normal as there is a plethora of different styles, lengths, thickness, and amounts so it can be really confusing. Today I'm going to give you a low down on what I think is the best style for those who want to make the progression from strip lashes into extensions. Cluster lashes.


You can buy these from Boots, Supermarkets, chemists with a lash section. The most common are the Eylure cluster sets, they come with 3 sizes of cluster lashes in them, glue and remover so they're a great place to start. My trays are exactly the same only I order them in bulk and it works out cheaper to go to an online seller and buying them by size rather than the packs of 3 sizes.

So these are the clusters 


I order mine in 12mm, but the Eylure come in a pack with 12mm, 10mm and 8mm so it's a one stop shop for the whole eye. 


I think these lashes are the best for those starting out because they have a little nobbly bit at the bottom which makes it easier to control on the lash line you also need less of them for the whole eye because each cluster has about 6 lashes on it. 

For the clusters be aware that you have to disguise those little nobbly bits in your lashes as they can give you away. We'll talk about that in a minute. 

Tools

Get your tools ready, you don't need much. Tweezers, a hand mirror, your glue, a steady hand and a 'devil may care' attitude.


Any tweezers that you're dexterous with will do. It's not about the specific type (although there are special lash tweezers out there that are long, but I find them quite fiddly when it comes to lash integration but that's just me) use what you are good with.

 Glue

This is my glue, I've had it so long it's lost the label, it's just a semi permanent clear lash glue from Sally's Salon Services. It comes in clear and black, if you're looking for it, it's with all the lash extensions and strip lashes.
Now there's 2 options of clear and black as I've mentioned. For me I use clear with cluster lashes because the nobbly bit is already very black and when you add black glue onto that it becomes harder to disguise them. I'll chat about the glue more when we look at individual lashes. 

What I will say is that with cluster lashes I would avoid the salon glues like AD and U+ black glues as they're very tricky and also very strong and more suited to individual lashes. Please if you're a beginner don't buy them and stick your eyelids together by mistake. I'm not even joking, it's nearly happened to me on occasion. The eylure ones and my favourite from Sally's will last just as long and probably won't cause the eye reaction the professional ones can.

If you buy the Eylure packs of clusters they come with a little perfume tester size glue in it, which I find desperately fiddly so I bought my own bottle, plus it lasts for ages (as my label-less bottle shows). I have my own little technique for my glue to keep it as simple as possible. Pour it in the lid, it stops it hardening then pour the remainder back into the bottle. No mess, no fuss. 


Application

Take out your lash tray, have your glue ready. Use your tweezers to gently pick up a lash from the tray. Make sure you pick them up carefully as too tight in the metal pincers and you'll bend the lash.
Carefully dip the lash into the glue, take care not to submerge the lash over the nobbly bit. When you're done take the lash out.


If you're concerned about your hand steadiness perhaps try it at a dressing table with a mirror so you can rest your elbow on the table and move your head accordingly. 
Work from the outside of your eye.
The aim is to adhere the clusters to the lashes, as close to the lash line as possible. 
To get them properly integrated into the lashes so they aren't just sitting on top I find it is effective to 'wiggle' the lash so it works its way into your natural lashes and the nobbly bit is somewhat hidden in the lashes. 


Hopefully as you can see in the picture you hold the cluster to just below the lash line and wiggle it in.


Work your way across the eye. You want to use the longest lashes on the outside of the eye. When you get a third of the way across you use the medium size lashes and then the shortest lashes are used on the inner eye. 
A new cluster should be placed where the lashes from the previous one stop. The nobbly bases don't have to be beside each other, go by where the fan of lashes on each stop and line your new lash up with them.

Common Problems
1. Can't get lashes to stick
Take a minute re-dip your lash, get a good view of your lash line and remember to very gently wiggle the cluster into your lashes. Release the tweezers and don't pull as you'll take the lash with you.

2. My cluster keeps sticking to my tweezers.
You've probably over dipped your lash and got a little bit of glue on the tweezers. Clean your tweezers and start again. Be careful not to hold the lash too far down so it doesn't happen again.

3. I can't seem to control the cluster very well, it goes everywhere.
You may be holding it too high up the cluster, hold it further down near the base so that you have more control where the little nobbly bit sits in your lash line and can integrate better.

4. I have been doing this forever and I keep having to redo the same one because it's not sitting properly and I'm slowly losing my mind.
Well this is a toughie, either lower your expectations and appreciate that it will take practise to get it perfect and until then very few people will notice that there's a nobbly bit on display. Keep practising as you will easily get better. I know girls who practise with strip lash glue on their individual lashes as they can remove any that don't work easily. You can try that if you want, I say keep trying and you'll be good to go.



This is an older shot but when you build up your clusters you should get an integrated look like this. I hope it's a decent example for you.

I'll be back with a tutorial on individual lashes soon for those of you curious and wanting to advance your lash skill. Until then folks.

Happy lashing!














17 comments:

Jenna said...

They look lovely on you!

xo, Jay

That's so Fletch

Beauty on a College budget said...

I will definitly be using these tips soon! I've been wanting to move from the one long strip to a few little guys just to give my lashes a little something.

clairewriteswords said...

They look fab. My hands shake really badly so I can't do these at all.

Lauren said...

I love cluster lashes, a d prefer them to strip lashes even for nights out but I do find them very fiddly! Must practice :)

WitchHazel said...

I used to wear nothing but individual lashes until I got a strip-lash kick and realized how much quicker and easier it was to just slap a whole strip on all in one go. I think my main beef with these cluster lashes is that I don't keep them on for more than a day or two, and I don't have that kind of time to be re-applying every other day (nor the patience). Do yours tend to stay on longer than that, and if yes, how long do you keep them on? Do you apply mascara over them or just wear them as is, and if you do apply mascara, how do you clean it off without pulling off your clusters? Sorry for all the questions, but I really would love to go back to wearing these sorts of lashes if I could manage to keep them on throughout my work week! xx

Sara said...

I used to use Eyelure cluster lashes years ago and then I think I lost my confidence with them and stick to strip lashes.

My problem with them is that often they point in the wrong direction, but maybe my glue is too wet?

I do have a pack of these in my drawer though and this makes me want to try using them again.

(Really I just want you to put them on me.)

DawnieP said...

-WitchHazel, mine stay on for about 3-4 weeks, it sounds to me very much like the glue you're using isn't adequate to keep them on. Are you using semi perm glue? The semi perm glue should bond them to your natural lashes for a while. Are you using white glue? They definitely should stay on longer than a day or two. The U+ glue that is for individual extensions lasts about 6 weeks. I think it's a glue issue :)

-Sara, sounds like you're maybe not getting enough bond on your lashes. The clusters normally move if they're not sitting in the lashes properly. Sometimes if they're just on the very top it makes them tip a little. My best advice is to wiggle them into your lashes, they'll have more to hold them and will sit more naturally against the rest of your lash line.

dp
x

WitchHazel said...

Yup, I use a semi-perm clear glue for these type of lashes. Some of them seems like they can stay on for two weeks, while others feel like they start to come loose after a day (or a long night of partying lol) Maybe I am being too stingy with the glue on the ones that feel like they're going to fall off. I have all the stuff at home, so I'm going to give it another go this weekend and see how long I keep them on. Thanks!!

DawnieP said...

Sara also wanted to add, lead with the nobbly bits at the bottom, they should be fastened into the lash line, often when the glue is sitting higher up the lash it makes them tip :) hope that helped

dp

Sara said...

Thanks doll! I think I was just setting them on top of the lashes so that's maybe why. I'm going to go and get some semipermanent glue and try again. Thank you for being my lovely lash guru!

DawnieP said...

-Witchhazel, it could be not enough glue perhaps, Or maybe you just need a stronger glue. The U+, U, and AD glues are very good but they make my eyes stream, sometimes it's worth it though as they last weeks! Try using a bit more glue and making sure it's bonded into the lashes as much as possible. I'm doing a post after the individual lashes one on maintaining them, so it might be worth a peep. Took me ages to learn not to rub my eyes!

dp
x

WitchHazel said...

Thanks for the tips! I'm really loving this series of posts on lashes, can't wait to read the next one! I'm pretty good at not touching my eyes as I usually have a ton of eyeshadow on anyway, trained myself on that one years ago ;p

DawnieP said...

-Witchhazel, you're more than welcome. I woman after my own heart.

dp
x

Fabrizia said...

I like your post so much! The final effect is really gorgeous!
Take a look and if you want we can follow each others: Cosa mi metto???
Last day to enter the Mimi Boutique giveaway

Satin and Souffles said...

I can never get them too stick! This is so helpful! Thankyou x

{Satin&Souffles}

Karen Law said...

Great tutorial Hun! I love your lashes - they look gorgeous on you :) Do you happen to know if you can double up on cluster lashes the way you can apply double lash strips?

DawnieP said...

Hi Karen great question. I think technically you could the main issue with this would come from integration of the lashes into the lash line. The little nobbly bits might get very prevalent. I've done a lash line before with clusters over the lash and then individual lashes to build them up. So in short I think you could do it I just don't know how happy you'd be with the result. Try some of the individual's and see if that helps
:) xxx

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