Lashtacular: The Individual Lash Tutorial

Hello my lovelies, welcome to the second part of my tutorials on eyelash extensions! Today is the turn of individual lash extensions. You may have read my first lash extensions tutorial, a great starting place for beginners coming to extensions from strip lashes. With this tutorial I'm going to talk you through what to buy, how to cut through the confusion, how to apply them, and most importantly how to maintain them.

Now individual lash extensions are a different beast entirely, it took me absolutely ages to build up any kind of dexterity with them. The fantastic thing about them is you are essentially putting individual synthetic eyelashes into your own lash line. There are no joins, there are no cluster bases to give you away, they look about as natural as you can get but they are fiddly. If you're up for the challenge here I am to give you a tutorial on how to do it, and all the tips I've picked up to make it easier.


I use trays of silk lashes, as you can see they come in strips and there are tons in a tray. Bear in mind you're going to be using these individual strands. There are lots of different types of individual lashes. Different curl types J curl, D curl, C curl, B curl, the letters are representative of the shape of the curls in the lash. There are different lengths 8mm, 10mm and 12mm and different thicknesses from 0.10mm-0.30mm. There also come in a variety of different materials, from silk, acrylic even mink fur. So there's a lot of choice, lots of ways to get very confused. 



I use a C curl lash in .20mm thickness 10mm length, in a silk. I think mink lashes are cruel so avoid them at all costs, they're also soft and hard to work with. If you're a novice a J curl will really help, it gives a curl but not as intense as a full c curl. 

What the heck do I buy?
 May I recommend you go for a J curl lashes in 0.20mm thickness around about 10mm long. These have a great natural curl, they're also thick enough that they are slightly easier to work with. If you wear glasses daily consider 8mm length as you may find any longer obtrusive. Please stay away from mink lashes, opt for silk.

Tools
The tools are the same as before, lash trays, tweezers and glue.


I use an ultra U black glue, but I'm about to change to a AD glue which is more sensitive. The U glue although strong is quite fume filled. You only need the tiniest bit, even though it makes my eyes stream it is almost invisible and lasts for ages (the quest for beauty eh?). I'll talk more about glues later. 

With the tweezers it's the same as before, use a set that you feel most comfortable with. The individual lashes are really, really fiddly so stick with what you find the most easy to work with. I also discovered when trying to photograph them how flipping tough it was! So bear with!

Application

You're going to be working with really fine strands so you want to keep it as easy as possible and make sure you can pick the strands from the strip without damaging them.

First of all, peel the strip away from the tray.

I'm apologising for the state of my nail polish in these pics!
From this you get an idea of the way the lash strip is built up. 
Once you've pulled the strip away from the tray you need position it so you can pick the individual strands off the strip easily. You're going to be doing it with your tweezers so you need a way of spreading the lashes out which will make it easier for you. 
Here's how I do it. 

I wrap the strip around my finger and use the sticky tabs to fasten it. This is just how  I do it, other people have different techniques. This allows the lashes on the strip to fan out and make it easier to grab them with your tweezers.

Hopefully you can see from this how the lashes spread, instantly making them easier to grab!

Once you've fastened your strip lashes around your finger, gently reach into the lashes with your tweezers and pluck 3/4 off. Place them on the back of your hand.


On the back of the hand you can see just how fine they are, but this makes them more grabbable. You can get little mats which go on the back of your hand that keep the loose lashes up, but honestly I've never found much use for them. But if you're finding it tough it is an option. 

Now what you need to do is pick the individual lash up with your tweezers. Get a gentle grip on it half way down the lash. 


Once you have a decent grip you need to apply some glue. Because the individual lash glue is so strong I usually just give the bottle a light squeeze and take a tiny bit from the top of the bottle neck as you don't need very much.

Now glue wise you can use the Eylure semi permanent glue, or the Sally's semi permanent glue that I mentioned in the last post. I use a stronger black glue as you only need to use a tiny amount. 
When we looked at the cluster lashes I had told you all that clear was the way to go because black glue would only add to the nobbly bit on the cluster and make it harder to blend. With individual lashes you can use black glue. I prefer black glue because you use such a tiny amount that it is imperceptible and just looks like part of the lash. 

The ultra glue is rather fumy but it lasts about 6 weeks. There's a lot of differing opinions on length of time glues should last. A lot of people understandably want it to last as long as possible up to about 8 weeks. In my opinion I think 3-4 weeks is a better time frame. You don't want your lashes to stay on longer than that. Not because of damage to your lashes or anything but because they do take a bit of abuse, the longer they are the more prone to damage they are. Just from things like sleeping on them, mascara, showers etc can all bend the lashes over time. They also grow out. So after about 4 weeks you're probably ready for them to be removed and replaced. 
So don't worry about getting a super long lasting 8 week glue. A good 4-6 week glue will last the course, and don't forget to get a remover!

One you've dipped them in the glue, onto the lash you go!



Start from the outside and work your way in like before. These are much easier to integrate into your lash line as you can see below.


Here's me placing a lash into the lash line, it is barely perceptible amongst the others. This is what you're going for. 

Once you have worked your way through the lash line to the inner corner you're all done!

Here is me wearing my individual lashes.


Maintenance 
It might seem self explanatory, but try not to rub your eyes vigorously.
In the shower, or when washing your face brush away water from under the lower lash line rather than from the top.
Easy on the mascara, go very sparingly with it if you plan to take it off as make up remover and cotton balls around eyelash extensions are a bad idea, they can snag and pull and you'll end up with cotton tufts in your extensions or missing bits.
I often leave mascara on my extensions, I only use a little bit and they aren't my actual lashes so I don't stress too much. 

Common Problems

1.I'm finding the lashes really hard to work with, they keep dropping, I can't get them off the strip etc.
You can do one of two things here, either keep practising until you get better with them, may I recommend somewhere really well lit or a magnifying mirror, or both. Or you can take a break and go back to cluster lashes until you have them completely mastered. It might also save your sanity!

2. My lashes keep turning on my lash line and tipping over.
A sterner glue can often take care of this, also putting the lash into a the middle of the lashes rather than on the top can give it more to hold onto. 

3. I can't make the lashes stay on, they fall off.
I would say a stronger glue is in order here, or more of it.

4. It is taking me forever and I'm slowly losing my mind and seeing double.
Step away from the lashes. Individual lashes do take a while, even relatively well practised it takes me an hour. It is a real labour of love at the beginning as it will take you longer and it is frustrating. The more you practise the easier it gets. Stick with it.

Hope this has helped girls, enjoy the lashes.

Much Love






10 comments:

WitchHazel said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
DawnieP said...

I just take it and do it my own way, you don't have to use scary glue or tape I recommend taking your time as they've got a really nice effect.

Sara Shoemaker said...

whoa this is intense! what a cool outcome though WOW! what a great tutorial!



The House of Shoes

Sara said...

Eep. My plan is to master cluster lashes before I go for the individuals. Much love for these posts!

Just wondering if contact lens wearing peeps have advice on glue? I have quite sensitive eyes.

S

Strawberry Blonde said...

Not sure I'd have the nerve but would SO love to be able to do this! Brilliant tutorial Dawn, thanks!

Nic x

Karen Law said...

Hi Dawnie! Your lashes look amazing and thank you so much for posting this tutorial. I love strip lashes and have only started using cluster individual lashes when I go swimming....the strip lashes are so much easier LOL When I get the hang of cluster lashes I'll venture into the individual lashes for sure ;)

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